Tuesday, August 18, 2009

One final sprint...

Tomorrow marks the day of my final journey home. I use the word home very loosely, of course, because as of right now I´m not sure if such a place actually exists. I know for sure that I will be living in Logan, Utah. I also know that all of my things are there. What I don´t know, is where I will be living when I get there. Oh well, I guess I´ll just figure that out when I get there.

Tomorrow I fly from Managua to San Francisco, with a lay over in Houston. After 10 hours of travelling, we will hop on BART (if BART is merciful and the strike is postponed for another few days) to head for Oakland. I still have one final commitment to fulfill in Oakland which is officially labeled as a debriefing. More likely than not, though, it will consist of us sitting around sharing stories and anecdotes with the other volunteers with very little official business what so ever. Next stop: Grandmas´s! Assuming BART is still operational, I´ll hop back across the bay for a nice relaxing visit in Daly City with the family. BART permitting, we´ll venture into downtown and do the regular sights.

After 3 days in the Bay Area, I set my sights on the majestic Rocky Mountains. I´m flying into SLC, but I´m still not really sure how I´ll be making the 100 mile trek north to Logan. A few freinds hinted at being free to give me a ride, but no response probably means no dice. I guess I´ll soon find out if a shuttle exists! Once I get into Logan, I have all of one evening to get settled into wherever I´ll be staying (until I find a permanent home, of course) before I need to report for duty on campus. I´m not sure what classes I´ll be taking (likely some form of Advanced Calculus and Fluid Mechanics) or what my work schedule will be, but I do know that some semblance of a consistent schedule is starting to look rather promising after all of this living I´ve been doing.

A Taste of the Carribean

For my last full weak in Nicaragua, I decided to try something new (keeping in spirit with my theme for the summer). Destination: Little Corn Island. The Corn Islands are off the East Coast of Nicaragua, and despite being Nicaraguan territory they have very little in common with the rest of the country. The only way to get to the little island is by boat, and no moter vehicles are allowed once you´re there. Sounds perfect!

I had two options of getting there. Either I could shell out the money to fly to the big island (and then boat to the little island), or I could have spent two days hopping from bus to bus to boat to boat. I chose plane. After spending so much time taking busses around western Nicaragua, it was cool to get to see it all from above. I only stayed awake for half the flight though (which of course is my usual habit). Lucky for me, eastern Nicaragua is all forest without much to look at. The boat from the big island to the little island was definitely worth the six dollars. We lucked out and missed the rain, and the turmoil of the waves gave us quite the exciting ride!

Upon reaching the island, I hopped off the boat and hiked straight to the east side (which looks out into the carribean sea without anything else in sight). I found the spot recommended by a friend and claimed my own piece of paradise for the week. At the "hotel" I was staying at, I had my own private hut on the beach - bathroom and mosquito net included - and all of the ocean I could ask for.

Looking back on it, I´m not sure how it all went by so fast. I had more than enough time for all of the required experiences: snorkeling in crystal blue water, running on the white sandy beach in the mornings, watching the waves from a hammock, reading to the sound of pattering rain, eating fresh fish almost every night - the list goes on. If I had spent any more time there, I may never have been able to leave. The way of life is too laid back to worry about anything but whether or not I´m hungry enough to actually get up and do something about it. It´s a shame I have this whole graduate school thing looming in my future, otherwise I very likely would have become a permanent beach bum and started guiding snorkeling and spear fishing trips for a living.

Monday, August 3, 2009

A Final Farewell

Saturday was my final visit to Malacatoya, the village in which I´ve spent the majority of my time here. It was, as most goodbyes are, bittersweet. Jaime, the director of AsoFenix, and I drove from Managua to Malacatoya so he could help me bring my things back down to Managua (a task too burdensome to be done on the busses here). On the way up, of course, Jaime stopped in at least three different places to talk with various people about various projects he´s helping with. While his business can be frustrating when you need his help on certain things, his entreprenurial spirit is truly inspiring.

Upon finally reaching Malacatoya, I was astonished to find that there was a crowd of people outside of the Pulperia (the one "store" in the neighborhood, akin to a convenience store), even a cop with an AK-47 was present. I tried not to dwell too much on the reason, and headed straight into the crowd to make my way into the Pupleria to claim my boots I had left there on my way to Managua last week (to get to my house, it´s a twenty minute hike up muddy trails). It didn´t register until after someone had handed me my boots without ever really acknowledging me, but the crowd was there because of a recent death in the community. No more than an hour before we arrived, the father of one of the men in the community had passed from heart problems. It wasn´t until later that I actually realized the huge faux pa I commited by barging into the home and asking fro my boots while all of this was going on.

While it was a little shocking and tragic, I can´t say it was entirely surprising. I don´t mean to lessen the significance of this man´s death, for I didn´t even know hime, but it seems to be common in developing countries. In my short time in Kenya I knew of at least 4 deaths connected to someone I met there that happened within that month. My time here, though, has only shown me 1 death. I suppose thats something.

Moving on from the morbid, I return to my last afternoon in Malacatoya. As I started my assent up to my house, it started to rain. Of course, it rains at least once a day in Malacatoya, so I wasn´t too upset and was prepared enough to have my rain coat with me. My family was there, minus the Dad, and I had my chance to say so long and thanks for all the beans. I packed my things into my oversized backpack and started down the mud slide of a trail. It´s sad to know I won´t be going back anytime soon, but I learned more from them than I´m sure they know. My foreign country experience has been made that much more real because of the Bravo´s, and for that I thank them.

While I may be done with my time in Malacatoya, I am far from done with my time in Nicaragua. I´ve still got several more villages to visit, a solar water distiller to build, and my final report to finish. All this needs to be done ASAP so I can have some time to venture off into some remote corner of Nicaragua that I will never forget!

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Pictures, Finally!

I´ve taken some sage advice from Josh, and started to post some of my photos up on Picasa. Some slideshows are shown here to the right, but all of the albums can be found here.

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

A Brief History

Nicaragua, like many other developing countries, has a very conflicted history when it comes to foreign influence. Like most countries in Central America, from the mid 1500´s until the early 1800´s, Nicaragua was subject to Spanish rule. Nicaragua gained its independence in 1838. In the late 1800´s, the US and several European countries gaine dinterest in Nicaragua as a prospect for a canal to connect the Pacific and Atlantic, but for many reasons it was dropped and the Panama Canal was built instead.

The beginning of the 20th century brought about the start of the US Intervention in Nicaraguan History. Fueled by interests in the Canal and other Nicaraguan Exports, the US held a Military presence in Nicaragua from 1909 to 1932, supporting the rebelling forces against President Zeleya. Eventually, with the support of the US, Somoza came to power. His family would continue to rule for the next 43 years, which is known as the Somoza Dynasty (1936-1979)

Named after a revolutionary from the 1930´s, a revolution was started in 1976 labeled The Sandinista Movement. On July 19, 1979, the revolution came to a succesful end and the Sandinista Front took control of the government. Due to a strong national unity, and an active involvement of the people, the government and economy should immediate improvements. The new government, however, was not supported by the rest of the world. A main opposition, due to support from Castro and Cuba, came from the US. Not only did the US enact a trade embargo to stifle the growing economy, but the US also funded a counter revolution which later came to be known as the Contra Movement.

The Sandinista Revolution started out with grand intentions, listing female equality, free education and secure human rights as many of its main goals. Sadly, from all of the opposition and struggling ecoomy, quickly fell victim to the usual corruption and stagnation that is all too common to developing regions. While there is still an annual celebration to commemorate the Sandinista Victory (July 19th, which I was lucky enough to be here for), many Nicaraguans will openly grumble about Ortega´s failures - the current President - and his shameless self promotion. At least it´s a good sign that they can openly grumble about it without the fear of higher powers punishing them for treason. It is a long slow road to true independence and freedom, but Nicaragua is renowned for its rebellious spirit and will not give up any time soon. While the government here is not flawless, it represents the voice of the people to at least a certain extent. Someone once said that democracy is the worst form of government we know of, except for all the others.

Monday, July 27, 2009

Continued Globalization...

Continued from here

Please believe me when I say that I´m not trying to elicit some ground breaking argument for us to settle, once and for all, the ultimate status of globalization. First of all, you´re absolutely right, it is an extremely complex topic with not just black and white answers. Secondly, I know all to well where an argument with you will lead (I refer you to your "cats vs dogs" argument with Kristina circa 1994). Finally, given our chosen professions, I figure no matter how valid my points are you will still manage to write circles around me. That being said, let me take another crack at this. I´m not too sure how much I can comment on the backlashes of globalization, but I can make a few estute observations and comparisons in regards to the culture washing you refer to.

First I will make a general observation on the acceptance of, for lack of a better reference, American culture in these two countries. From my perspective, Kenya seems more open to accepting American Culture. My guess as to why is that American Culture there seems to be associated with an unshakeable image of wealth and prosperity. The extreme poverty of Kenya puts them in a position to be in want of anything representing wealth and prosperity. Nicaragua, on the other hand, seems to be more independent and indifferent to American culture. This may be for several reasons. Maybe the proximity of Nicaragua to America makes everything more readily available, and thus not as new and exciting. Another reason could be be because of the conflicted historical relationship of Nicaragua and America (see the US supported former Samoza Regime, the US established National Gaurd, the US funded Contra movement in opposition to the Sandinista Revolution: all of these are relatively frowned at by Nicaraguans).

On a less speculative note, I can compare the concept of a mall in Nicaragua to one in Kenya (a mall being the epitome of mass production and consumer culture). The mall we visited in Kenya (Nairobi) was referred to as the Yaya Center. The outside seemed average enough, just another large nondescript building in town with a very small parking lot and lots of people sitting around outside. Inside was another story. In most other places in Kenya, I felt like a novelty. Between my white skin and my, well, white skin, I stood out like a sore thumb. The Yaya Center easily had the highest concentration of other white people I saw anywhere in Kenya. Exploring some of the stores, I began to see why. The price tags were catered to the higher income population and more frivolous individuals. Also, the mall only had a few stores and took maybe 15 minutes to pass them all before you found yourself retracing steps. Nicaragua (Managua) on the other hand, is rife with shopping malls. Not only are the malls bigger, but the prices are much more reasonable and I had the blaringly obvious pleasure of being one of two "gringos" in the place (the other being my friend). Again, these reactions of locals to the malls may be becaus eof the relative distribution of wealth, or it may be because of the availability of such luxuries.

In terms of how the different generations seem to accept this globalization, it seems pretty comparable in both Kenya and Nicaragua to America. The younger the person, the easier it is for them to pick up a new contraption and figure out how it works. While visiting a school in Kenya, I relinquished my new digital camera - which I was still learning all the features of - to an overly curious little kid (who was a former street kid with very little first hand experience of technology). Not only was my camera returned with a rapidly filled memory card, but settings had been changed (seemingly intentionally and unintentionally) that I didn´t even know my camera had. In Nicaragua, I have seen many signs of the same. At least in Malacatoya (the main village I am working with) It is safe to say that the younger the family, the more likely they are to have appliances like TVs and Radios (the only houses with nothing more than a few lights are houses where only the grandparents remain, all kids have moved out and started their own families). All in all, Youth in both countries, and America too for that matter, seem more open and apt to pick up new things (technology, fashion, entertainment, etc.). This could be due to a less concrete connection to how things were, or it could be attributed to being less afraid of the rapidly accelerating change (due to lack of perspective) of the world we live in.

Sunday, July 19, 2009

Discussion on Globalization.

A comment from my brother, Josh, currently in the Peace Corp stationed in Moldova.

Brett,
Thanks for trying to take a stab at my question. I have to say though I'm a little confused by the direction of the response you take.

You mention that what I ask “is a bit of a loaded question.” But I'm wondering why you say so. Trust me when I say I wasn't hoping for an indictment of globalization by you. Obviously it's a complex process with more gray than black or white. But still there has to be some dissenting voices, and I'm curious to know what that backlash is and how it differs from Kenya to Nicaragua. Or maybe you are saying – if I am reading between the lines correctly – that there is no backlash.

You say you haven't had any negative conversations about downsides of Western culture. That's good, (great, in fact). But does that suggest to you that there are none to be had, or merely that people are too polite to mention these downsides to a guest in their community (and a representative of that particular hegemonic institution in question).

I don't think anyone could argue the myriad benefits of globalization. You mention access to information and more freedom of choice, which are certainly true. But I wonder how that access is spread across the economic line: is it equal for poor and wealthy alike? What about in the families you visit? How do they compare with an average American, or even an average Nicaraguan family? Has this new information focused itself in the hands of the wealthy and thus compounded the economic divide, or has it helped to close the gap.

You mention seeing people on the buses with tons of American clothes and that there is an abundance of American products for sale. So how does this help the people. Maybe they look cool (or at least like the characters from Western movies they see). But at what price to their economy – and taking that a step further – to the livelihood of the individual. What effect does the flooding of cheap second-hand clothing on the market have on local or national clothing businesses. Can anyone compete with this? Or is this just another way that a poorer country is forced to become irrevocably reliant on a wealthier country.

If you want a place to start asking people around you, I suggest CAFTA (and it's relationship to Nicaragua's increasingly lopsided trade balance) or the rise in the drug economy. Or maybe, when you're visiting those families, do an informal survey of how many family members are forced to work abroad to send remittances home for lack of local job opportunities. I read somewhere that Nicaragua is more than 50 percent. What effect is the lack of one or both parents having on the families, and how will this manifest itself in the future generations?

You may be correct in saying there isn't a backlash to globalization and that it's benefits outweigh its costs. But I am pretty skeptical of the rosy picture you seem to be painting. Mostly I am surprised because I have never been to a country where people (with a little probing) aren't willing to voice their concerns about the effects that a more dominant culture – be it American, Russian, French or any other former colonial power – have on their own culture. And here you've been to two in the same summer.

My response:



You present all valid points, those are indeed many of the blaringly obvious downsides of globalization. Perhaps, also, I have managed to paint an overly rosy picture; but I want to make sure that you know not all effects of western culture and technology have the negative effect of providing youth of a developing country with false idols such as 50 cent and Tupac (I am referring of course to your blog posting here and your underlying implications that Western Culture and Mass Media can give the wrong impression). I don´t disagree with this view in particular, mind you, for this effect can even be seen in the United States with kids having an overly romanticized view of the “Gangster” way or gunslinging in the Wild West even. There are many downsides to globalization, but all too often these downsides are blown out of proportion to the effect of ignoring how it indeed helps more than we know. I am not saying there are no backlashes, I´m saying the backlashes should be fairly obvious and I want to focus on the unseen benefits.

I will start by citing one of my first observations in Kenya. The Telecommunications network there is, in my opinion, more advanced in many ways than that of America. Almost no one has a land line, but cell phones almost as common in the States. The network there, however, has many more features that are well ahead of the times in America. Cell phones are pay as you go. You add minutes to your phone by either buying a scratch card with a special code that you text to the network hub, or you go to a vendor and they literally text more minutes to your account. This same feature, in fact, is in Nicaragua as well. Additionally in Kenya, if my friend is out of minutes and I have some to spare, I can actually text them some minutes if desired. Because of the established communication giants in America, this is something that we should not expect to see in our country anytime soon. Because of the lacking infrastructure in developing countries, however, they are able to implement this newer wireless technology much quicker.

This feature has provided not only a simpler method for communication with greater availability for the masses, but has had several other positive effects as well. When I say people buy minutes, I mean that they add a balance to their phones (Kenyan Shillings in Kenya, and Dollars in Nicaragua) and then the balance is diminished based on the calling rate applicable to who you call (it costs more to call land lines and international). This means that when you give some of your balance to a friend, you are literally loaning them money. The way that this feature has been put to use is that vendors can actually sell their goods without having to accept cash. It is very possible, and quite common in fact, for people to buy things such as a soda or batteries by sending a text rather than handing over some bills.

This example is more of a convenience than an actual benefit, but there is another underlying benefit. Having a bank account is a luxury that has not been available to many Kenyans in the past. Because of minimum balance requirements and excessive service charges, a bank account was common only to the upper class. The capabilities of this Telecommunications, however, has effectively given the middle and lower classes access to the advantages of banking. People have even gone so far as to use the service as a substitute for ATM´s in some places.

In response to your question on American Products and how they benefit the people, I can´t be quite as optimistic, however. Nicaragua has a very troubled history (both political and economic) that has been heavily influenced by past and present US politics and desires. While superficial benefits can be seen in the availability of low cost “quality” products from companies such as Walmart (which owns at least two of the major supermarkets here), one can´t help but wonder how much of those profits actually stays in country and how much is filtered North to the corporate headquarters. Additionally, this irrevocable reliance on a wealthier country is blaringly obvious for me. The proximity of Nicaragua to a wealthy nation makes it seemingly worse here than in Kenya (although not by much). Because of the lack of Industry here, many products are purchased from foreign companies. Additionally, this means that when the product breaks down the only replacement parts available usually come from foreign companies as well.

I can´t say for sure how long this effect will last, probably for decades to come due to the political instability of the region, but I can say it is not unnoticed. It will take time to fix, but people are trying. Many people do realize the benefits of economic independence and domestic production over imports, and I have already read several books on the topic in my time here. There is a reason why I have been working on technologies with simple designs using locally available materials and technologies. This is the same reason why I am working with a local NGO rather than a foreign service. While it has become a bit of a fad word recently, it is promising to see that there are more prevailing sustainable solutions today than ever before.