Tuesday, August 18, 2009
One final sprint...
Tomorrow I fly from Managua to San Francisco, with a lay over in Houston. After 10 hours of travelling, we will hop on BART (if BART is merciful and the strike is postponed for another few days) to head for Oakland. I still have one final commitment to fulfill in Oakland which is officially labeled as a debriefing. More likely than not, though, it will consist of us sitting around sharing stories and anecdotes with the other volunteers with very little official business what so ever. Next stop: Grandmas´s! Assuming BART is still operational, I´ll hop back across the bay for a nice relaxing visit in Daly City with the family. BART permitting, we´ll venture into downtown and do the regular sights.
After 3 days in the Bay Area, I set my sights on the majestic Rocky Mountains. I´m flying into SLC, but I´m still not really sure how I´ll be making the 100 mile trek north to Logan. A few freinds hinted at being free to give me a ride, but no response probably means no dice. I guess I´ll soon find out if a shuttle exists! Once I get into Logan, I have all of one evening to get settled into wherever I´ll be staying (until I find a permanent home, of course) before I need to report for duty on campus. I´m not sure what classes I´ll be taking (likely some form of Advanced Calculus and Fluid Mechanics) or what my work schedule will be, but I do know that some semblance of a consistent schedule is starting to look rather promising after all of this living I´ve been doing.
A Taste of the Carribean
I had two options of getting there. Either I could shell out the money to fly to the big island (and then boat to the little island), or I could have spent two days hopping from bus to bus to boat to boat. I chose plane. After spending so much time taking busses around western Nicaragua, it was cool to get to see it all from above. I only stayed awake for half the flight though (which of course is my usual habit). Lucky for me, eastern Nicaragua is all forest without much to look at. The boat from the big island to the little island was definitely worth the six dollars. We lucked out and missed the rain, and the turmoil of the waves gave us quite the exciting ride!
Upon reaching the island, I hopped off the boat and hiked straight to the east side (which looks out into the carribean sea without anything else in sight). I found the spot recommended by a friend and claimed my own piece of paradise for the week. At the "hotel" I was staying at, I had my own private hut on the beach - bathroom and mosquito net included - and all of the ocean I could ask for.
Looking back on it, I´m not sure how it all went by so fast. I had more than enough time for all of the required experiences: snorkeling in crystal blue water, running on the white sandy beach in the mornings, watching the waves from a hammock, reading to the sound of pattering rain, eating fresh fish almost every night - the list goes on. If I had spent any more time there, I may never have been able to leave. The way of life is too laid back to worry about anything but whether or not I´m hungry enough to actually get up and do something about it. It´s a shame I have this whole graduate school thing looming in my future, otherwise I very likely would have become a permanent beach bum and started guiding snorkeling and spear fishing trips for a living.
Monday, August 3, 2009
A Final Farewell
Upon finally reaching Malacatoya, I was astonished to find that there was a crowd of people outside of the Pulperia (the one "store" in the neighborhood, akin to a convenience store), even a cop with an AK-47 was present. I tried not to dwell too much on the reason, and headed straight into the crowd to make my way into the Pupleria to claim my boots I had left there on my way to Managua last week (to get to my house, it´s a twenty minute hike up muddy trails). It didn´t register until after someone had handed me my boots without ever really acknowledging me, but the crowd was there because of a recent death in the community. No more than an hour before we arrived, the father of one of the men in the community had passed from heart problems. It wasn´t until later that I actually realized the huge faux pa I commited by barging into the home and asking fro my boots while all of this was going on.
While it was a little shocking and tragic, I can´t say it was entirely surprising. I don´t mean to lessen the significance of this man´s death, for I didn´t even know hime, but it seems to be common in developing countries. In my short time in Kenya I knew of at least 4 deaths connected to someone I met there that happened within that month. My time here, though, has only shown me 1 death. I suppose thats something.
Moving on from the morbid, I return to my last afternoon in Malacatoya. As I started my assent up to my house, it started to rain. Of course, it rains at least once a day in Malacatoya, so I wasn´t too upset and was prepared enough to have my rain coat with me. My family was there, minus the Dad, and I had my chance to say so long and thanks for all the beans. I packed my things into my oversized backpack and started down the mud slide of a trail. It´s sad to know I won´t be going back anytime soon, but I learned more from them than I´m sure they know. My foreign country experience has been made that much more real because of the Bravo´s, and for that I thank them.
While I may be done with my time in Malacatoya, I am far from done with my time in Nicaragua. I´ve still got several more villages to visit, a solar water distiller to build, and my final report to finish. All this needs to be done ASAP so I can have some time to venture off into some remote corner of Nicaragua that I will never forget!
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Pictures, Finally!
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
A Brief History
The beginning of the 20th century brought about the start of the US Intervention in Nicaraguan History. Fueled by interests in the Canal and other Nicaraguan Exports, the US held a Military presence in Nicaragua from 1909 to 1932, supporting the rebelling forces against President Zeleya. Eventually, with the support of the US, Somoza came to power. His family would continue to rule for the next 43 years, which is known as the Somoza Dynasty (1936-1979)
Named after a revolutionary from the 1930´s, a revolution was started in 1976 labeled The Sandinista Movement. On July 19, 1979, the revolution came to a succesful end and the Sandinista Front took control of the government. Due to a strong national unity, and an active involvement of the people, the government and economy should immediate improvements. The new government, however, was not supported by the rest of the world. A main opposition, due to support from Castro and Cuba, came from the US. Not only did the US enact a trade embargo to stifle the growing economy, but the US also funded a counter revolution which later came to be known as the Contra Movement.
The Sandinista Revolution started out with grand intentions, listing female equality, free education and secure human rights as many of its main goals. Sadly, from all of the opposition and struggling ecoomy, quickly fell victim to the usual corruption and stagnation that is all too common to developing regions. While there is still an annual celebration to commemorate the Sandinista Victory (July 19th, which I was lucky enough to be here for), many Nicaraguans will openly grumble about Ortega´s failures - the current President - and his shameless self promotion. At least it´s a good sign that they can openly grumble about it without the fear of higher powers punishing them for treason. It is a long slow road to true independence and freedom, but Nicaragua is renowned for its rebellious spirit and will not give up any time soon. While the government here is not flawless, it represents the voice of the people to at least a certain extent. Someone once said that democracy is the worst form of government we know of, except for all the others.
Monday, July 27, 2009
Continued Globalization...
Please believe me when I say that I´m not trying to elicit some ground breaking argument for us to settle, once and for all, the ultimate status of globalization. First of all, you´re absolutely right, it is an extremely complex topic with not just black and white answers. Secondly, I know all to well where an argument with you will lead (I refer you to your "cats vs dogs" argument with Kristina circa 1994). Finally, given our chosen professions, I figure no matter how valid my points are you will still manage to write circles around me. That being said, let me take another crack at this. I´m not too sure how much I can comment on the backlashes of globalization, but I can make a few estute observations and comparisons in regards to the culture washing you refer to.
First I will make a general observation on the acceptance of, for lack of a better reference, American culture in these two countries. From my perspective, Kenya seems more open to accepting American Culture. My guess as to why is that American Culture there seems to be associated with an unshakeable image of wealth and prosperity. The extreme poverty of Kenya puts them in a position to be in want of anything representing wealth and prosperity. Nicaragua, on the other hand, seems to be more independent and indifferent to American culture. This may be for several reasons. Maybe the proximity of Nicaragua to America makes everything more readily available, and thus not as new and exciting. Another reason could be be because of the conflicted historical relationship of Nicaragua and America (see the US supported former Samoza Regime, the US established National Gaurd, the US funded Contra movement in opposition to the Sandinista Revolution: all of these are relatively frowned at by Nicaraguans).
On a less speculative note, I can compare the concept of a mall in Nicaragua to one in Kenya (a mall being the epitome of mass production and consumer culture). The mall we visited in Kenya (Nairobi) was referred to as the Yaya Center. The outside seemed average enough, just another large nondescript building in town with a very small parking lot and lots of people sitting around outside. Inside was another story. In most other places in Kenya, I felt like a novelty. Between my white skin and my, well, white skin, I stood out like a sore thumb. The Yaya Center easily had the highest concentration of other white people I saw anywhere in Kenya. Exploring some of the stores, I began to see why. The price tags were catered to the higher income population and more frivolous individuals. Also, the mall only had a few stores and took maybe 15 minutes to pass them all before you found yourself retracing steps. Nicaragua (Managua) on the other hand, is rife with shopping malls. Not only are the malls bigger, but the prices are much more reasonable and I had the blaringly obvious pleasure of being one of two "gringos" in the place (the other being my friend). Again, these reactions of locals to the malls may be becaus eof the relative distribution of wealth, or it may be because of the availability of such luxuries.
In terms of how the different generations seem to accept this globalization, it seems pretty comparable in both Kenya and Nicaragua to America. The younger the person, the easier it is for them to pick up a new contraption and figure out how it works. While visiting a school in Kenya, I relinquished my new digital camera - which I was still learning all the features of - to an overly curious little kid (who was a former street kid with very little first hand experience of technology). Not only was my camera returned with a rapidly filled memory card, but settings had been changed (seemingly intentionally and unintentionally) that I didn´t even know my camera had. In Nicaragua, I have seen many signs of the same. At least in Malacatoya (the main village I am working with) It is safe to say that the younger the family, the more likely they are to have appliances like TVs and Radios (the only houses with nothing more than a few lights are houses where only the grandparents remain, all kids have moved out and started their own families). All in all, Youth in both countries, and America too for that matter, seem more open and apt to pick up new things (technology, fashion, entertainment, etc.). This could be due to a less concrete connection to how things were, or it could be attributed to being less afraid of the rapidly accelerating change (due to lack of perspective) of the world we live in.
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Discussion on Globalization.
Brett,
Thanks for trying to take a stab at my question. I have to say though I'm a little confused by the direction of the response you take.
You mention that what I ask “is a bit of a loaded question.” But I'm wondering why you say so. Trust me when I say I wasn't hoping for an indictment of globalization by you. Obviously it's a complex process with more gray than black or white. But still there has to be some dissenting voices, and I'm curious to know what that backlash is and how it differs from Kenya to Nicaragua. Or maybe you are saying – if I am reading between the lines correctly – that there is no backlash.
You say you haven't had any negative conversations about downsides of Western culture. That's good, (great, in fact). But does that suggest to you that there are none to be had, or merely that people are too polite to mention these downsides to a guest in their community (and a representative of that particular hegemonic institution in question).
I don't think anyone could argue the myriad benefits of globalization. You mention access to information and more freedom of choice, which are certainly true. But I wonder how that access is spread across the economic line: is it equal for poor and wealthy alike? What about in the families you visit? How do they compare with an average American, or even an average Nicaraguan family? Has this new information focused itself in the hands of the wealthy and thus compounded the economic divide, or has it helped to close the gap.
You mention seeing people on the buses with tons of American clothes and that there is an abundance of American products for sale. So how does this help the people. Maybe they look cool (or at least like the characters from Western movies they see). But at what price to their economy – and taking that a step further – to the livelihood of the individual. What effect does the flooding of cheap second-hand clothing on the market have on local or national clothing businesses. Can anyone compete with this? Or is this just another way that a poorer country is forced to become irrevocably reliant on a wealthier country.
If you want a place to start asking people around you, I suggest CAFTA (and it's relationship to Nicaragua's increasingly lopsided trade balance) or the rise in the drug economy. Or maybe, when you're visiting those families, do an informal survey of how many family members are forced to work abroad to send remittances home for lack of local job opportunities. I read somewhere that Nicaragua is more than 50 percent. What effect is the lack of one or both parents having on the families, and how will this manifest itself in the future generations?
You may be correct in saying there isn't a backlash to globalization and that it's benefits outweigh its costs. But I am pretty skeptical of the rosy picture you seem to be painting. Mostly I am surprised because I have never been to a country where people (with a little probing) aren't willing to voice their concerns about the effects that a more dominant culture – be it American, Russian, French or any other former colonial power – have on their own culture. And here you've been to two in the same summer.
My response:
You present all valid points, those are indeed many of the blaringly obvious downsides of globalization. Perhaps, also, I have managed to paint an overly rosy picture; but I want to make sure that you know not all effects of western culture and technology have the negative effect of providing youth of a developing country with false idols such as 50 cent and Tupac (I am referring of course to your blog posting here and your underlying implications that Western Culture and Mass Media can give the wrong impression). I don´t disagree with this view in particular, mind you, for this effect can even be seen in the United States with kids having an overly romanticized view of the “Gangster” way or gunslinging in the Wild West even. There are many downsides to globalization, but all too often these downsides are blown out of proportion to the effect of ignoring how it indeed helps more than we know. I am not saying there are no backlashes, I´m saying the backlashes should be fairly obvious and I want to focus on the unseen benefits.
I will start by citing one of my first observations in Kenya. The Telecommunications network there is, in my opinion, more advanced in many ways than that of America. Almost no one has a land line, but cell phones almost as common in the States. The network there, however, has many more features that are well ahead of the times in America. Cell phones are pay as you go. You add minutes to your phone by either buying a scratch card with a special code that you text to the network hub, or you go to a vendor and they literally text more minutes to your account. This same feature, in fact, is in Nicaragua as well. Additionally in Kenya, if my friend is out of minutes and I have some to spare, I can actually text them some minutes if desired. Because of the established communication giants in America, this is something that we should not expect to see in our country anytime soon. Because of the lacking infrastructure in developing countries, however, they are able to implement this newer wireless technology much quicker.
This feature has provided not only a simpler method for communication with greater availability for the masses, but has had several other positive effects as well. When I say people buy minutes, I mean that they add a balance to their phones (Kenyan Shillings in Kenya, and Dollars in Nicaragua) and then the balance is diminished based on the calling rate applicable to who you call (it costs more to call land lines and international). This means that when you give some of your balance to a friend, you are literally loaning them money. The way that this feature has been put to use is that vendors can actually sell their goods without having to accept cash. It is very possible, and quite common in fact, for people to buy things such as a soda or batteries by sending a text rather than handing over some bills.
This example is more of a convenience than an actual benefit, but there is another underlying benefit. Having a bank account is a luxury that has not been available to many Kenyans in the past. Because of minimum balance requirements and excessive service charges, a bank account was common only to the upper class. The capabilities of this Telecommunications, however, has effectively given the middle and lower classes access to the advantages of banking. People have even gone so far as to use the service as a substitute for ATM´s in some places.
In response to your question on American Products and how they benefit the people, I can´t be quite as optimistic, however. Nicaragua has a very troubled history (both political and economic) that has been heavily influenced by past and present US politics and desires. While superficial benefits can be seen in the availability of low cost “quality” products from companies such as Walmart (which owns at least two of the major supermarkets here), one can´t help but wonder how much of those profits actually stays in country and how much is filtered North to the corporate headquarters. Additionally, this irrevocable reliance on a wealthier country is blaringly obvious for me. The proximity of Nicaragua to a wealthy nation makes it seemingly worse here than in Kenya (although not by much). Because of the lack of Industry here, many products are purchased from foreign companies. Additionally, this means that when the product breaks down the only replacement parts available usually come from foreign companies as well.
I can´t say for sure how long this effect will last, probably for decades to come due to the political instability of the region, but I can say it is not unnoticed. It will take time to fix, but people are trying. Many people do realize the benefits of economic independence and domestic production over imports, and I have already read several books on the topic in my time here. There is a reason why I have been working on technologies with simple designs using locally available materials and technologies. This is the same reason why I am working with a local NGO rather than a foreign service. While it has become a bit of a fad word recently, it is promising to see that there are more prevailing sustainable solutions today than ever before.
Thursday, July 16, 2009
A Return to Productivity
My first step in this project was to become familiar with how it all operates. Malacatoya is a village of over 100 houses, but 30 of these houses have recently been supplemented with electricity from a microhydro turbine that´s more or less in the middle of town. I say more or less, and use the term town in the loosest sense possible, because these thirty houses I´ve been getting familiar with are connected by nothing more than a network of steep and muddy mountain trails. Needless to say, I´ve quickly become accustomed to my new rubber boots being an acceptable substitute for which a high-tech americanized hiking boot would normally be a requisite. After three weeks of wandering and socializing, my first real act as an Engineer was to start my census by making a map of the houses with electricity. This was done, oddly enough, by doing what I had already been doing for the last few weeks (wandering and socializing), but this time I had a GPS in tow to mark the connected houses as waypoints.
After a having the full picture of how the houses were distributed on the network, it was time to get to know the turbine. To do this, I needed a voltmeter, a clock, a good book, a hammock, and an Ipod with solid headphones to block out the incessant whirring of a water jet being converted into electricty.
*Technical description, skip if needed*
The electricity is produced by a three phase generator which is connected via belt drive to a paddle wheel driven by the water jet. A three phase generator is a much simpler and cheaper design than other motors by altering the output current into three identical loads (or phases). The requirement with this, however, is that these three outputs need to go to equal loads (or demands). Enter me and my responsibilities. While watching the turbine for 24 hours straight, I took notes on the three outputs (the turbine house is in the middle of town with three lines branching out in different directions to 10 houses each, 30 total). Because of the controlling mechanism connected to the generator, the electrical output corresponds to the demand of the network of houses. Therefore, by watching the output I get an idea of the demand and whether or not the three lines are balanced unevenly (a invariable unbalance will break the generator).
*End of technical description, tune back in*
The 24 hours actually passed surprisingly quickly. I used a hammock that I bought at a market in Nicaragua for $8, a sleeping bag (a cotton sheet pretty much) I found for free at some point in college, a book I got as a Christmas Present (Going Postal by Terry Pratchett, very entertaining) and my Ipod to pass the time. Maybe it was the noise, maybe the novelty of the experience ("camping" in a rainforest), or maybe the bugs, but I really only slept for a few hours that night and was fine the next day.
The next step of my investigation is currently halfway done. I am going from house to house to see what appliances (tv´s, radios, dvd players, fridges, lights, and fans are all common) exist and how often they are used. While its interesting enough to see what the village has opted to use their new found electricity for, my favorite discovery is the predominant intimacy of the community. Many times in my first pass at surveying the houses and their appliances I would see the same people in several different houses through out the day. This happened so often, in fact, that I really couldn´t tell who belonged to which house by the time I was done.
All of this said and done, I really only have one more week of work to do in Malacatoya. I have ten more houses to survey, a few odds and ends to measure, one more day watching the turbine spinning round and round, and a forced failure of the turbine to monitor(telling the entire community to turn all of their apliances on at the same time and watching how the system responds). Whats next has yet to be seen. I have five weeks left and only a few simple tasks to do. I think now is when the real explorations start and I find out what the rest of Nicaragua is really about!
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
"Impending Globalization..."
In my expereiences over the past two months, I´ve encountered some very interesting questions about life in America. More often than not, they stem from preconcieved notions of unlimited wealth or complete and unregulated freedom in America. I haven´t had many (none actually that I can think of) conversations geared towards the down side of western culture. Maybe it´s because I haven´t been digging deep enough, or maybe it´s because its not what most people think of.
My current observations on globalization have been that people here are very receptive. Granted, I haven´t really experienced what could rightly be deemed an "indigenous culture". I´ve only experienced life in rural villages. Nevertheless, people love to be able to tap into the rest of the world by means of a radio or a television. More often than not, of course, its for mindless entertainment, but it´s still information. People do stick to their ways, but like everyone, they crave something new, they want to see whats on the other side of the fence.
As I was taking the bus from my village to Managua today, I had an interesting revelation. On a side note, to get from my house in Malacatoya (a village of about 100 homes, connected with nothing more than a muddy mountain trail, and only 30 have electricity from the turbine I´m helping to improve) to Managua (the capital city of Nicaragua) I have to walk for 45 minutes, and take two busses, and walk another 20 minutes. On the bus today I was looking at the various other people with me. It dawned on me that the majority of clothing with a brand or label was indeed American. While not as prevalent in Kenya, it was still noticeable. Hat´s people were wearing had names like Oakley, Birkenstock, various college sports teams, Disney, etc. Also, hygeine products like Head & Shoulders and Scott Tissue are very common. While maybe not manufactured in the US, they´re all American brands.
I think what I´m trying to get at is that there seems to be very little resistance to globalization. While it may not be consciously acknowledged and welcomed, it seems that globalization does have a positive effect on development in a third world country. While availability from other factors such as remoteness and lack of income still present a major issue, information and opportunity of frredom of chioce is slowly expanding its reaches to even the most remote of places in both Africa and Central America.
This expanse of information and products, however, doesn´t seem to erase the local culture. It may mix in here and there, but it doesn´t have the dominant effect that many skeptics seem to think it might have. As can be noticed in places in America too, driving two hours out of the city and in to the country you can notice many changes. The accents are different, slang is different, clothes are different, gait si different, the list goes on. Even such a close proximity doesn´t have the mixing effect that people predict globalization will supposedly have. Of course, thats just my opinion from an unformulated, ranting, exhausted, soap box mounted perspective. More unphilosophical stories will come tomorrow.
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
A Comparison of Markets
There were a few differences though. While Masai (in Kenya) was an open air market with very few vendors even having tables, Masaya (Nicaragua) was (while not in a building per se) was covered with a roof and each vendor had their own store/table. Another difference was the method of salesmanship. In Masaya (Nicaragua), most vendors are sitting by their tables, always saying "any questions?" as you pass by or show a glimmer of interest. In Masai (Kenya), however, before we even entered the square of the market, we were swarmed with people trying to pawn off their goods. In some cases people would even try to grab our arms or shoulders to direct our attention were they thought it belonged.
Both experiences were a little overwhelming at times, but fun nonetheless. Given the chance, I would definitely return to either one. At the Masaya Market (Nicaragua) I picked up a hammock for only $8 (after a little negotiation of course). I´ll be putting it to good use over the next week when I return to my village, so we´ll see how the quality is!
Saturday, July 4, 2009
A Better Perspective
Having a few days to readjust back in Managua (after a week in the village and absolutely no one to speak english with) I´m beginning to see that those thoughts were born merely of shock and awe. I still have trouble understanding some of what is said, but I´m no longer afraid to stumble over my words and force my way through a conversation.
My 4th of July celebration has consisted of many affirmations. Despite the fact that there has been very little "American" about this holiday, it has been by far my most edifying Independence Day yet. Going out to dinner with two other girls, I´ve been the one to barter with the cabbies. My size, accent and confidence seems to carry more credibility and bargaining power than my companions. My time in Kenya has led me to have no shame in lowballing some one who I now know is trying to take advantage of my skin color. The conversations at dinner were on the different perspectives of the relative absolute poverty of different countries (the unanimous conclusion is that it would be preferrable to be poor in a village in Nicaragua than be poor anywhere in the US). The check after dinner was hastily produced by our waiter with several attempts to elicit an excessive tip (which we were able to catch and avoid on the mere principle of the matter).
I know when I return to the village on Monday, I will be back in over my head, but at least I´ve had this peace of mind and reassurance to know that my lessons are being learned and the experience has not been fully wasted! I´m keeping a close watch on the number of days I have left, and even though the number is currently at 46, I feel like it won´t be enough time to see, do and learn everything I hope to.
Thursday, July 2, 2009
Day to day
The family I´m living with is incredible, but the adjustment has been a little tough for me. They talk a mile a minute, with a very different accent than my americanized spanish education (which was in high school, mind you) prepared me for. To the majority of questions, I can only respond "¿que?" (what?). After asking that two or three times, I usually just surrender and say "si" (yes), not knowing if it´s an appropriate answer or not.
The head of the household is named Pablo. He´s fairly young (I would guess in his mid 30´s) and really friendly. His wife, Irma, is very intense and I feel like she´s always yelling (wether out of frustration because of something her youngest has just done, or in hopes that it will help me understand more of what she´s trying to say to me). The oldest son is named Juan Pablo, or Pablito, and is 14 years old. He´s seems more mature than a lot of friends I had at GU, but then again most college kids are pretty immature anyways. The next oldest is Marlon, who is 7. He and I have been attached at the hip for the last week, romping through the hills and forest together every day. He´s old enough to know more spanish than me, but young enough to have the patience to help me learn what he´s saying. The youngest is Lionel, and is only 2. He´s extremely boisterous and rarely listens to his mother or brothers (maybe thats why I like him so much).
The part of the country I´m in is incredible. I´m in central Boaco (a state in Nicaragua) in the mountains and forests of central Nicaragua. It rains almost everyday, which means most of my days are speant sloshing along muddy trails wearing my newly acquired rubber boots (which cost me about $7). There are several streams through the area, and one is big enough to have a few swimming holes. I haven´t seen them all yet, but the most recent one I´ve been shown is 10-15 feet deep (I´ll save the stupidity of cliff jumping for when I´m closer to my departure). Fruit trees are everywhere, and sugar cane is easy to come by. The Machete that I carry with me everywhere comes in pretty handy for a simple snack on the go! Every meal I have consist of rice, beans and tortillas. Luckily I´m not sick of it yet. Actually, it´s a nice change of pace from the college life style of waking up and asking myself "what the hell did I eat yesterday?"
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
El Compo
Tomorrow we leave Managua for our respective villages. My destination is Malacatoya (in the municipality of San Jose de los Remates). Through my program, volunteers are usually paired off, but because of some last minute road blocks in our program, I will be thrown off the deep end by myself. While other volunteers have a fellow gringo to help them through and share their learned mistakes with, I will be on a solo adventure. Honestly, I couldn´t be happier. The whole reason I volunteered for this project was to be pushed out of my comfort zone.
If I had to define stepping out of ones comfort zone, I would say "living for two months with a new family in a small village in the mountains of Nicaragua, being forced to speak only in a language I know very little of, learning their culture, being completely disconnected from everything I´m used to, all the while learning the workings of an already operational microhydro turbine so that I can test and monitor its operation to improve its efficiency and output, while at the same time teaching them about how to use electricity wisely."
On top of this, I also have several side projects. First of all, I am designing a solar water distiller to provide purified water for refilling deep cycle batteries charged by solar panels (for the village of Corozo). Secondly, I am helping to improve (and develop fail safe features for) an existing wind turbine design from previous volunteers that is made from modified pvc tubing and steel water pipes.
Lets do this!
Sunday, June 21, 2009
First Communtiy Experience...
There were fruit trees everywhere (mangos, avacados, limes, and more that I don´t even know what to call). By watching the kids, it was pretty easy to tell what the tastiest ones were. Once they realized we were interested in what they were eating, they started to bring us their favorites and show us all sorts of cool plants. We had rice and beans for every meal (they´re delicious now, but I may be sick of them by August) and were given cots and hammocks to sleep on for the night. I get another day or so to regain my senses after that adventure before I´m thrown back into the deep end. Next time I will be by myself though, with no one to tell me if the crowd is talking about me or trying to ask me a question without my realizing it. I know I´ll survive though, at least I know how to say I´m hungry, I need sleep, I want a beer and it´s ok. That was all I really said throughout high school and college anyways!
Friday, June 19, 2009
Hola Nicaragua!
As far as the languag barrier goes, it is definitely going to be a rough week or two (or two months for that matter) getting my spanish back. The good news is, if I´m eavesdropping on a conversation, I can usually discern 60% of whats being said. The bad news is, as soon as someone asks me a question or starts speaking directly to me, my ears seem to clog up at the same time as my brain slowing down and I can only understand 20% of what is said. Worst of all, when I feel I have something to say (or its time for me to say something) I stumble more than a sixth grader at his first school dance. It will be slow going, but I´ll get my tongue back eventually; its already a good sign that some of my thoughs are starting to come out in spanish.
Tomorrow I get up by 7 and pack up my rain gear to head into the mountains to tag along on the assessment. Lucky for me, there are at least two other english speakers in the group so I might be able to give some input on what I know and see (provided they´re willing to translate it for me). We´ll see how it goes!
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Orientation Day 1
That was Saturday...
Nairobi Nightlife
1. Everyone is dancing, even if they're sitting down.
2. Drinks are much cheaper (under $2)
3. The playlist is more diverse (East African Reggae, The Corrs, Michael Mcdonald, very little gangster rap)
Friday, June 12, 2009
Safari Time!
Zebras
Goats and Cattle
Traditional Masai Herdsmen
Gazelle
Monkeys
Mongoose
Gilla Monster (or just a really big lizard)
Hippos
Impalas
Topi
Buffalo
Giraffe
Jackals
Elephants
Wildebeast
Lions (feasting on a kill)
Ostrich (with their heads in the dirt)
Warthogs
Hyenas
Crown Cranes
Bush babys
Eagles
Cheetahs
Secretary Birds
Baboons
Other safari vans at every turn
It was an adventure I won't soon forget!
Kitale to Nairobi
Sunday, June 7, 2009
Cuisine
The most common dish I've seen seems to be Stew with Ugali. The stew is usually beef (sometimes spicy, sometimes not) and is very runny. Ugali is a dish that is made from maize (corn). It can best be described as similar to grits, but much more dense. The Ugali is almost flavorless, so its very common to dip it in the stew as you eat it.
Meat here is very different from the States. It is much tougher as everything here is raised "free-range". Also, chicken is more expensive than beef. It is traditional for a family (that can afford it) to slaughter a goat every month or so, and that meat will last for the entire month (meat is only prepared on special occasions in the home).
Monday, May 25, 2009
Day 1 in Kitale!
Our first full day was filled with more wandering and acclimation. We started the day with a short walk into downtown Kitale (about 30 minutes). The landscape is lush and green and almost none of the roads are paved, but the dirt is a beautiful deep red (just like that found at Vinehill in the Sierras). By the time we made it into the heart of Kitale it was obvious that we all stand out like sore thumbs. Most people we passed would just stare, but a few would wave and smirk at us. If someone wanted our attention from afar they would shout Mizunga (Swahili for “white person”) and wave dramatically. It almost makes one feel like a cross between a zoo exhibit and a celebrity. Aside from a few tough acting males, though, everyone I’ve met so far is an instant friend.
The two major things we did outside of wandering were to tour a school and make our first visit to our construction site. The school is called St. John Bosco Children Centre and is geared towards getting kids off the street and tailored for a proper education (preparing them to enter primary and secondary school). We were instant hits among the kids with magic tricks and nifty digital cameras. Our time at the school was cut short, though, when the sky began to show signs of the afternoon storms so we made a quick exit and drove over to our construction site. The term construction site is, of course, used in the loosest sense possible. The site consists of a large plot of land, with a small portion (maybe 50x90 feet) plowed and leveled for where the Water Filter Manufacturing Facility is to be built. We had expected the foundations to at least be laid, but because our shipping containers with all of the supplies have not even made port in Mombasa (at least a full day’s journey from Kitale) everything has been put on hold. In the mean time it seems as though the plan is for us to be glorified tourists. Maybe we’ll get to find a bar on Wednesday night and watch the Brazil/Manchester match for a good time, who knows!
Nairobi
We hired a Matatu (van taxi) to drive us around Nairobi for the day, as our flight to Kitale wasn’t for another 8 hours. We ended up paying 7500 Kenya Shillings total (or less than 100 US Dollars) for the entire day, just a small example of how cheap labor is in Kenya. Nairobi seemed like a ghost town so early on a Sunday morning, it was almost unnerving. Our first stop was a small cafĂ© on the first floor of a large bank building. Paul seemed a little tumultuous in trying to explain things to us (tentative plans, layout of Kitale, how to use the cell phones we would have while in Kenya, how to count in a foreign currency, how to split a bill fairly). Newly graduated Engineers didn’t seem to rank too highly on his list of able bodied travelers.
After a relaxing breakfast and seminar on technology use, we embarked on our city tour. For the first hour or so, we drove all around the city, stopping or slowing down at important waypoints and impressive city scapes. By now the city was starting to come to life. The most impressive thing seen from the car was the slums in Nairobi. We only even drove a little ways in, as Paul was starting to become noticeably tense from the obvious stares and the quickly declining semblance of safety.
After a brief glimpse of life in the slums, we hastily reverted to the tourist ways and headed for the Giraffe Park. The park was a reserve that was home to 9 Rothschild Giraffes. After a little bartering, we were able to get admittance to the park as students (I guess my worn out ID wasn’t convincing enough, all that’s left is a magnetic strip after 5 heavy years of use). Feeding the giraffes was pretty entertaining. It was a lot like feeding a horse, but with more slobber and a longer tongue. Our next destination was the house from the movie “Out of Africa” with Meryl Streep. If you’ve seen the movie, it looked exactly like that (interestingly enough). Next we went for lunch at the Walking Safari National Park. We didn’t tour the park, but the lunch was delicious. The menu was pretty touristy so most of us ended up getting burgers and fries.
Our drive back through town was a little more frenzied than our first morning pass. While the driver still said it was nothing compared to a Friday afternoon, the streets were packed with cars on top of bikes on top of pedestrians. The rules of the road seemed to be drive defensively and let everything else sort its self out. We even witnessed a truck tire blow out right next to us (which sounded like a small bomb at first). Luckily for the cargo of the truck, it didn’t seem to phase the driver in the least as he drove on right next to us as though nothing had happened. We made it to the airport with time to spare. Africa time kept our flight from leaving as scheduled, but we finally made it out of Nairobi for our destination of Kitale.
Amsterdam
After much deliberation and personal introspection, I decided it best to not go to sleep; instead I stayed out with friends until the wee hours, only to return just as Pat was waking up to prepare for the airport run. By some miracle, we made it to the airport and checked our bags a hair ahead of the deadline for international travel. Another 30 seconds later, and we wouldn’t have been allowed to board. A brief nap/flight later, we found ourselves in Portland. Pat’s Aunt, living just across the river, was nice enough to pick us up and give us a hearty breakfast that we so desperately needed. After yet another frantic sprint through the airport, we managed to make our next flight barely in time (our other team-mate Isaac wasn’t so lucky, we had to part ways with him and hope to meet up later in Amsterdam, which we did!) The endless selection of free movies on the plane, coupled with an internal clock telling me not to sleep, led to a restless nine hour flight across half the globe.
Pat and I landed in Amsterdam at around 7:30 AM local time. No reason to sleep yet! After a tiring 2 and half hours of passing through checkpoints and re-checking our luggage, we were finally ready to explore downtown. Our timing couldn’t have been more perfect. A Saturday spent wandering Amsterdam was filled with all sorts of surprises. The people here are very friendly and most speak at least a little English. We made some new friends, stumbled on a museum or two, tracked down recommended sites and stores from old friends, we discovered a local fresh market filled with fruits and vegetables, and we even spent some time in an antique shop (their specialty was LP’s, mostly American music). To answer the questions most would ask: no, we did not go to the red light district, but yes, we did manage some harmless mischief. I’d have to say that my favorite part of the city, though, was the fact that bikes easily out number cars. You can’t walk 100 meters without both almost getting hit by a biker and almost tripping over a stack of parked bikes.
Despite the fact that Amsterdam quickly became my favorite city (with newly formed reveries of actually living there one day), the time had to be cut short with our approaching departure for Nairobi. After a few essential duty free purchases (a bottle of cognac for the Bishop of Kenya and a travel alarm clock) we find ourselves waiting patiently at the gate to make the next continental leap. If the movie selection is the same maybe I can squeeze in a few winks, but landing in Nairobi at 6:35 AM leaves us very little hope that we can be well rested for our arrival. Sleep can wait, though; we’ve got too much stuff to see!
Kenya Project Background
I thought it may be helpful to provide a brief background on what the ultimate goal is and why we’re lucky enough to be in
A humanitarian project in
The next step to be taken by Gonzaga (and the next Senior Engineering Design Team) is to design the educational facility and dormitory in such a way that they can be entirely self-sustained using these technologies as well as utilizing the Water Filter Manufacturing Facility as added income and education for common shop technologies. The construction site we have is large enough for all of these buildings, but is still empty as of today. The main goal for this summer is to construct a simple steel building to act as the temporary Filter Manufacturing plant. Our team has been sent along in order to provide some feedback on the construction, as well as to the future design team, on how everything might mesh best. We’re also hoping to piece together a short promotional documentary to help the Gonzaga find some deep, humanitarian oriented pockets to help fund the construction of the other buildings.
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Tomorrow!
Kesho basi...
(Tomorrow then)